The cost of bait has been reduced by 30% directly! These secrets to reducing the feed conversion ratio are all used by experienced aquaculture experts

2025-09-05

Despite having invested a large amount of feed, the fish and shrimp grow slowly and are small in size?


The feed conversion ratio remains high, and the cost pressure is increasing?


Don't let your money on feed go down the drain! Today, I'll teach you 4 practical tips to easily reduce the feed conversion ratio and turn every grain of feed into real money!



I. What is the feed coefficient?


The Feed Conversion Ratio refers to the amount of feed consumed by the farmed animals to increase their unit body weight. The calculation formula is:


The feed coefficient = total feed amount/total weight gain


The lower the coefficient, the higher the feed utilization rate and the lower the breeding cost. The ideal feed ratio varies by species: for white shrimp, it is generally 1.2 to 1.5; for grass carp, it is 1.5 to 1.8; and for sea bass, it is 1.2 to 1.4.




Two. 4 Tricks to Reduce the Bait Coefficient, Practical Tips!


The first trick: Choose the right variety and high-quality seedlings to save feed by nature


Not all seedlings are the same! High-quality seedlings carry "low-coefficient genes", such as:


Select varieties with strong disease resistance and fast growth: For instance, choose "Kehai No.1" and "Guangtai No.1" for white shrimp from South America, and "Changjiang No.1" for grass carp. These varieties grow 15% faster than ordinary seedlings and have a feed coefficient 0.1 to 0.2 lower.


When choosing seedlings, there are three key points to consider: vitality (they jump vigorously when picked up), size (uniform and not deformed), and body color (bright and free of white spots). Poor-quality seedlings, no matter how much feed they are given, will have difficulty growing weight and are prone to illness.




The second trick: "Precise matching" of bait to avoid wasting money


Many people think that "expensive feed is good", but that's not the case! The key lies in "matching the stage" :


Larval stage: Select high-protein micro-particle feed (protein content 40%-45%), such as special open feed for fish and shrimp seedlings. The particles are fine enough to suspend, preventing the seedlings from not being able to eat and sinking to the bottom to contaminate the water.


Adult stage: Adjust the protein content according to the species. For instance, for adult grass carp, use feed with 28% to 30% protein, and for adult white shrimp, use feed with 36% to 38% protein. Excessive protein content will instead increase the metabolic burden and lead to an elevated coefficient.


Pitfall avoidance reminder: Don't buy low-quality and low-priced materials! Some materials are mixed with a large amount of straw powder and soil. Fish and shrimp won't digest them, and the coefficient will only increase, making it even more expensive!




The third trick: Feed at fixed times, in fixed quantities and of fixed quality to eliminate waste


Ninety percent of farmers have made the mistake of "overfeeding"! When feeding correctly, remember the "Three Determinations and One check" :


Timing: 2 to 3 times a day, for instance, 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. for grass carp, 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. for white shrimp. Avoid periods of high temperature (above 30℃) and low dissolved oxygen (below 5mg/L), as fish and shrimp are less likely to eat at these times and the feed is prone to settling at the bottom.


Quantification: Feed at 3% to 5% of the fish and shrimp's body weight. It's better to feed less than more! You can place an "observation net" on the counter. It's just right to finish your meal within 30 minutes. If you don't finish it, you'll get a 10% discount next time.


Quality control: The feed should not mold or form lumps. When feeding, use a feeder to evenly spread it to avoid local accumulation.


Check the status: Feed less or not at all on rainy days or when the water is muddy. Reduce the feeding of fish and shrimp by 50% when they are sick. At this time, their appetite is poor. Feeding too much will only pollute the water.


Tip: Use the "satiety observation method" - stop feeding fish and shrimp when they "eat and swim at the same time, no longer gathering to compete for food". This is more accurate than feeding them rigidly based on their weight!




The fourth trick: Adjust the water properly and improve the bottom. Fish and shrimp will "eat faster and grow faster"


The water quality is poor. Even if fish and shrimp eat the feed, they still can't digest it! These two key indicators must be well controlled:


Dissolved oxygen: When the dissolved oxygen is low, fish and shrimp will "float to the surface", lose their appetite and are prone to poisoning. You can turn on an oxygenator or sprinkle oxygen-increasing tablets.


Bottom substrate: Regularly apply bottom modifiers to prevent leftover feed and feces from rotting at the bottom of the pond, generating ammonia nitrogen and nitrite. These harmful substances can cause fish and shrimp to "eat food but not gain weight", and the coefficient will soar.


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